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what type of Chinese Elevator to investigate

Le 29 January 2016, 09:22 dans Humeurs 0

Now that you have an idea of what type of Chinese Elevator to investigate, here are a few more tips from Opland, who owns several lifts himself and has been installing them professionally for more than 20 years.

Many lift companies offer an optional caster kit, usually costing several hundred dollars. When attached, these kits allow the lift to be rolled around the garage. Save your money, advises Opland. Most lift owners never move their lift. If they do, a pair of simple floor jacks and a table full of pizzas to entice your buddies to lend a hand will get it done in a matter of minutes.

For drive-on lifts, consider investing in a pair of lightweight aluminum ramps. The steel ramps that come with most lifts can weigh in at 50 pounds each, just enough to aggravate an already abused lower back. Also, buy an additional set of rubber wheel chocks. Most lifts come with metal chocks, which, in an emergency, could slide on the runway. A pair of cheap rubber chocks may mean the difference between a close call and dropped car. Says Opland: “If you put your ’67 Corvette through the kitchen wall, it’s definitely going to ruin your dinner.”

For frame-engaging lifts such as the scissor-type and side-post, always double-check that the car is secure on the lifting arms by first raising it so that the tires are just off the ground, and then bouncing on the back bumper. If the car rocks off the arms so low to the ground, it won’t be damaged. If it rocks off higher up, you’ll need a new car.

Many lift companies offer a choice of 110-volt or 220-volt lift motors. Going with the higher voltage speeds up the lift, but Opland recommends staying with 110. Most garages have 110-volt service with a requisite 15-amp circuit, and installing 220 often means hiring an electrician and ripping into drywall. With a 110-volt motor, the lift can be operated during a power failure by a conventional portable generator and even by a plug-in cigarette lighter power converter. If you move and take the lift with you, you’re more likely to find a 110-volt service in your new garage. Don’t assume the electric motor can operate on either 110 volts or 220. Most lift motors are designed to run on the specified voltage.

If a China Elevator still seems like too much effort and money, consider how sore you were the last time you did a big job underneath the car, and how much licensed chiropractors charge per hour to work on your back. A high-quality garage lift makes DIY car repair far more civilized and comfortable and should be tops on your list of future garage tools.

Change Your Brake Pad By Yourself before Christmas

Le 21 December 2015, 03:55 dans Humeurs 0

You will be pleasantly surprised to find that you can change your car's Ceramic Brake Pad quickly, easily and without specialized tools. Doing it yourself also will save you a lot of money. But even if you're not interesting in doing this yourself, knowing what's involved makes it easier to understand what your mechanic may someday tell you.

Nearly all cars these days have front disc brakes. Front brakes usually wear out more quickly than the rear brakes (which could either be disc or drum brakes), so they need to be changed more often. You need to change brake pads when they get too thin, especially if they begin to make a persistent metallic squeaking or grinding noise when you press the brake pedal. But noise alone isn't always the best indicator, so it's best to anticipate when this will happen by periodically inspecting the thickness of the brake pads.

Materials Required

New brake pads. Since you are saving money by doing this yourself, you might want to consider splurging a bit by buying original manufacturer brake pads, which are more expensive. Here i recommend you

Can of brake fluid — check your owner's manual for the proper type.

Getting Started

Jack the car up and remove the wheel and tire.

Remove the Caliper.

Check to see how much friction is on the rotor by turning it by hand. A small amount of drag is normal. Remove the caliper so you can inspect the condition of the rotor. To do this, loosen the bleeder screw, located on the back of the caliper. Then, disconnect the flex hose, (which is connected from the caliper to the car) by loosening the fitting that attaches it to the car. At this point, place a your metal pan beneath the caliper to catch any remaining brake fluid coming out. Then, remove the caliper retaining bolts and rock the unit back and pull it away from the rotor.

Check the Rotor.

Remove the hub retaining nut in the middle of the rotor. Some rotors will slide off without any unbolting. The rotor should come right off at this point so you can inspect it. If a rotor is badly worn, you may be able to notice pronounced grooves on its surface. However, most of the time, you will need to use your micrometer to measure whether it is thick enough for you to continue using it.

Your rotor most likely has the minimum thickness measurement stamped on its edge. If your rotor is dirty or rusty, use your wire brush to clean it and expose the measurement. Then, take your micrometer and determine whether the minimum amount of thickness remains. If so, wear on the face of the rotor can be machined by a service technician. If not, it must be replaced. If a rotor is suffering from lateral run out, (i.e., is warped) the rotor must be replaced with a new one. Lateral run-out tends to cause a shimmy and pulsation through your steering wheel when you apply the brakes.

Check the Wheel Bearings.

If your car has a closed roller address and it has become beat (normally about 100,000 afar or so), the absolute caster hub accumulation have to be replaced. If it has a cone-shaped roller address (as a lot of cars do) you can abolish the roller address from the hub accumulation and audit it. Look for affirmation of pitting or scoring. If it has these conditions, it should be replaced.

Before replacing the bearing, it have to be greased. Before administration the grease, yield some duke cleaner and rub it assimilate your hands, abnormally apperception on your fingernails, again clean off the excess. Next, yield a ample allocation of grease into the approach of one duke and the address in the other. Turn the address to its added end and again columnist it into the grease, until the grease is absolutely through the holes in the bearing. Yield some time to accomplish abiding that the grease is formed through the absolute unit. Then, plan some grease into the address chase on the hub that holds the address and admit the bearing.

Next, you have to administer the grease seal. Many humans accomplish the aberration of anguish the allowance into abode with a hammer. This usually destroys the seal, banishment you to buy addition one. However, you can save time and money by application a allowance driver, which you can acquirement at an auto accumulation store. This apparatus fits over top of the seal, again you bang the top of the tool, which pushes the allowance into place. The money you save on seals should awning the amount of the tool.

For more information, please click Disc Brake Supplier

How to Know When You Need New Brakes

Le 16 December 2015, 04:50 dans Humeurs 0

When you're driving along the highway on a sunny day with your windows down and your radio volume up, it's easy to forget that you're in a massive chunk of steel and glass hurtling through space at 60-plus miles per hour (97-plus kilometers per hour). At that speed, if you suddenly needed to stop, your vehicle could take approximately the length of a football field (100 yards or 91 meters) to come to a standstill -- and that's only if you've kept one of the most critical safety Ceramic Brake Pad systems in your car well maintained: your brakes.

Brakes may not be the sexiest part of a car, but they're certainly one of the most crucial. Paying attention to the warning signs that indicate a need for service can mean the difference between life and death on the road.

Of course, there are some obvious signs that your brakes need servicing, such as the brake light appearing on your car's dashboard or the feeling that your vehicle is taking longer to stop than it should. In either of these cases, you should visit your local mechanic for a brake check as soon as possible. But do you know what the other signs are that could indicate an ailing brake system?

Unfortunately, there is no clear-cut schedule that tells you when it's time to replace the brakes, so you need to rely on your ears and the advice of an experienced automotive technician. Most vehicles should have their tires rotated at least every six months, and that is a good time to have the brakes inspected, as well. A mechanic can check the thickness of the pads and the condition of the brake hardware to spot wear.

They may not be something you think about very often, but your vehicle's brakes are one feature that should always be in top working condition. Here, teahc you how to know when you need new brakes.

Top Ten Warning Signs You Need New Brakes:

1. High pitched squealing

2. Vibration in the steering wheel when stopping

3. Grinding noises when stopping

4. Increased braking distances

5. Longer pedal travel

6. Feeling the car “pull” to the left or right when stopping

7. A weak emergency brake

8. A bad smell after coming to a hard stop

9. Pedal “fade”

10. Not stopping

Many cars have built-in wear sensors that scrape against a brake disc when the linings needed replacing. The driver will hear an annoying screeching sound when they apply the brakes (or when the brakes are released on some vehicles).

Those sensors aren't on every vehicle, so drivers should listen for squeaks, squeals, grinding (often a sign that brake pads are entirely gone) and other noises that indicate wear. Some minor noises can be eliminated by cleaning the brakes, but persistent, prominent noises usually mean parts are worn. Other signs are pulsations through the brake pedal, longer stopping distances, or when you apply the brakes your foot goes down further, closer to the floor. Because brake linings wear gradually, you may not notice the demise in performance, so that's where the experienced eye of a mechanic can help.

One exception is if your car has been sitting after being exposed to water, such as from rain or from washing it. The moisture can cause a thin layer of rust to develop on the brake rotors. This is normal. When you first apply the brakes, the pads pressing on the rust-covered rotors may cause a squeal for a few stops until the rust is worn off and then the sound will disappear.

All cars have a brake warning light that comes on for a few seconds every time you start your car. If it comes on while driving, that probably means your brake system is low on fluid because of a leak or a problem with the brake master cylinder. Note that this is not the same warning light that comes on when you apply the hand- or foot-operated parking brake.

All cars and light trucks also have front disc brakes. Most have rear discs, as well, though some lower-priced cars still come with rear drum brakes. With discs, it has been common practice to just replace the brake pads and resurface the rotors on a lathe if needed so the surface is even and smooth.

Vibration. A vibration or pulsating brake pedal is often a symptom of warped rotors (but can also indicate that your vehicle is out of alignment). The vibration can feel similar to the feedback in the brake pedal during a panic stop in a vehicle equipped with anti-lock brakes.

For many owners, maintaining the vehicle's brakes is something that is often overlooked. But keeping your brakes properly calibrated and in good working order can prevent costly repairs down the line, and, more importantly, choose a good Disc Brake Supplier  is important, here , i recommend you

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